Starting out 2024 in Rome 🎉🥂🍾

And yes, I wore red underwear too!

My view on the last day of 2023. Colosseo, Rome.

I’ve just returned from a 9-day trip to the Eternal City in which Capodanno (the term for the Italian New Year) was sandwiched neatly into the middle of my excursion. Why would I wear red undergarments, you ask? Superstition and tradition. The week between Christmas and New Year’s, you can find red underwear for sale in shops all over Italy, and wearing them is supposed to help you usher in good luck. I also downed a bowl of lentils and cotechino sausage, the shape of which signifies coins and symbolizes the hope of a yearful of prosperity.

We also watched Rome celebrate from a perch on the Gianicolo, the hill overlooking the city. People everywhere light fireworks (the kids next to us had Roman candles, which have long been banned in the U.S.). It’s a bit of a free-for-all fireworks zone, which I find fascinating, baffling, and terrifying at the same time. The video isn’t overly impressive, but there wasn’t any way we could get close to the open area with better views without being in the middle of a firework-happy mob. Focus on the pervasiveness of the fireworks instead…they were literally lighting them off everywhere in the city.

This trip was especially wonderful for me because it was the first trip I took after my cancer diagnosis. I met up with dear friends in Rome, some from San Francisco, some from London, and some from Rome. It made the end of a really rough year much better.

Here are some of the highlights. Make sure you click through to the main post to see them all!

I have always wanted to go to the beautiful Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, designed by Boromini, but you need to go to Mass to do so. Still, I was finally able to peek inside the courtyard. Such beauty and symmetry!

Going late at night (this was 11PM) meant the crowds were much more bearable at Trevi fountain. I could get near enough to throw in my coin!

It was 60 degrees most of the time! We took friends to Ostia Antica, part of a private tour with Through Eternity, which I highly recommend. Thomas was a fantastic guide!

Every year, there’s a parade on New Year’s Day, in which, inexplicably, American bands come and play (we saw bands from Sparks, Nevada, and Florida, for example). Usually, the parade is at the Vatican, but they moved it to the Corso this time. It began with people in traditional Ancient Roman garb, including Caesar!

I also made a trip to the Sacro Bosco, where IN THE GARDEN OF MONSTERS is set. This dragon is fighting off lions and wolves.

Of course, there was a lot of amazing food! I started the trip with Spaghetti Vongole at one of my favorite places, Ar Galleto, on Piazza Farnese, where Pepe has been my waiter for over a decade.

I went to an Italo Calvino exhibit—he’s one of my favorite authors. The exhibit was wonderful, and I loved seeing some of the raw pages of his manuscripts.

Gelato! This is from Frigidarium, near Piazza Navona, which is one of my faves.

During the holiday season, it’s a must to duck into every single church and see the presepe (nativity scene). Some are quite elaborate. The Christmas markets usually have stalls where you can buy figurines for your own scene.

The Trame di Luce (Plots of Light) at the Botanical Garden was truly beautiful. This is one of the many stunning pictures I took that night (New Year’s Day).

There were lights everywhere. And I love that every year they are different! This is the Corso, the main street in Rome, late at night. Normally it’s jam-packed with

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Moving forward this newsletter will aim to be in your inbox every Tuesday. I’ll also be playing a bit with more video and audio as the year progresses, so stay tuned!

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WHAT’S BRINGING ME JOY THIS WEEK

• Picture says it all:

• Well, things turned out differently, don’t you think? I mean, I’m glad we don’t have asbestos suits and shock therapy. 😄

  

• This ad for Excel in 1990

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If you love food and love Italy, and haven’t read THE CHEF’S SECRET or FEAST OF SORROW, click the links to learn where to buy your copy! 🍒🍗🍷

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